Salathe Wall, Pitch by Pitch:

  1. Very freeble, links with 2 on a 60m rope and 15' of simo.
    {mb}10 c with great finger locks. slick feet though. I slipped.
  2. harder than it looks imho, only pitch on free blast that needs #3 camalots.
  3. trivial aid then 5.7. Back clean roof so 2nd can lower out.
  4. easier than it looks, I haven't freed it, but it goes ok french. lots of small 1-4ish rocks long sling for the last piece before you traverse left about 20' off the belay
  5. A: Turning the small roof is weird. I used tri cams and aliens.

    B: clip a few bolts, then go left, then go up, then go back right. don't clip the bolts on the left so you end up with a staight rope (bolts are bomber 3/8).

    The move to the bolt on the left is either sketchy/hard face or hooks. I used a talon on a crystal, its "improbable" a stick would trivialize this.

    {mb}The little piece of rock to the left, if you can stand on it, you will be able to clip bolt. Also the move if hooking requires two hooks. I would use two talons. There is a free move higher up on the pitch. As well as a hook move in a chiseled hole near the last bolts. 5.7 free for a bit to anchors.

  6. moves off the belay are easier than they look. the move to the pin is hard face. Again, a stick would trivialize this, but I made a talon on a sheared off bolt stick. Then, I usually just pendo off the big chain link after the pin.
  7. really fun pitch, very freeable. Belay is wad of pins...
  8. back clean the traverse so the 2nd can lower out. The best nut placement in the world is just after you turn the corner. The bashie that sling hangs off is really grim. Above the bashie I find the pro weird. Best thing for me was a blue tricam
  9. Very easy.
  10. Run together with 9 on a 60m rope and 20' of simo.
  11. Don't use the first rap station you see. for the real raps you need to down climb about 20' to huge chains.- look down at the tree, notice the ants, then look to the right and thats where the bolts be.
  12. Pitch sucks. Traversing and crappy rock. Reachy move to the bolt. back clean!
  13. belay high in the 4th class. crappy anchor
  14. Horrow Frake I find the crux to be the two bulges at the bottom. #5 camalot is scary tipped out for those moves, you can't leave a piece without a heinous Z. The section above isn't so hard and is easy to protect with #3 and #4 big bros. lower bag on a diagonal, so it never touchs 5.7 part of pitch.
  15. easier than it looks. Walk a #5 camalot the whole way. Awkward at top if the fixed line isn't there. Haul outside the chimney
  16. {eb} 10a my ass (Mike Brodesky, 1996).
    {mb}Funny I don't remember this pitch at all. it was the first lead I had to do that day so it might have been that morning thing.
    {eb}there was a lot of whining...
  17. you have to do a sketchy bit of face to start this. You want the mungy crack on the left (pin scars) not the larger crack/flake to the right
  18. Ear. Fix a hex or a bong so the damn thing isn't a pain to clean I did it by staying high. My beta was to go low. 2nd does the jug/chimney thing.
  19. Back clean the pieces above the the roof so the rope doesn't bury them into the crack. Need #3 camalot sized pieces at the roof, but then the pitch is mostly thin. Brass HB offsets are the way. Long pitch, make sure the belayer is in the comfy stance below the bolts
  20. 10a fists or really bad bashies on the face. Need a 20' sling to tie off a boulder for the anchor
    {MB}Fists my ass. 10a Arm bar. I lead the first part free, then moved right to bashies then back left and free to ledge.
  21. Sketch a' roo! At the bottom the pro isn't where you want to be Its sort of a wide stem to work your way into the back where the chimney narrows down. About halfway up you can get bomber nuts in the crack and the rest is a cruise.
  22. the squeeze is stiff bring big gear
    {mb}yes #3/4 big bro. #5 camalot. Free climbing required. I think there is a hidden edge on the main wall. Good hold out right.
  23. no clue
    {mb}Hmm, maybe i lead this one. Up a crack to 4th class. I think it was nice pin scars.
  24. the pins after the tension traverse are a bit sketchy, but not too bad
  25. the jungle. Really awkward. I backcleaned the traverse at the top, Bring large gear.
  26. Fabulous crack. Should be freed. The mantle onto the block is weird. This combines with 25 on a 60m rope.
    The Block Sucks!(tm)
  27. Starting crack is on the left. I thought the low pendo onto the sloping ledge was very hard. I would pendo high. Many people epic this pitch. Do not think of fixing and comeing back. top of pitch is way left of start.
  28. combines with 29 on 60m rope. Has one hard section. Tri cams and chouinard hook.
  29. I thought this was very hard. Hooking old stoppers, then tricams. Miserable flare at the top. #2&3 camalots at the top.
  30. The roof is really fun. Belay at the anchor just above the roof for a short pitch
  31. fixed gear isn't so good the flare mid pitch is hard. #4 camalot?
  32. Thin but straightforward. Following the final traverse is sketchy (5.6 hand traverse while sliding jugs). Long ledge is wild. best night on route. Also sad one.
  33. Pitch starts off the far right side of the ledge. The first couple of moves are very sketchy. blue hb quad cam at waist height.
  34. easy pitch. fairly freeable Fun too. Bring crow bar to get out friend.
  35. easier than it looks. bolts up and left. Haul bag gets stuck in groove, unless you move it out left. Also loose rock here. have a route signal system down. You can not hear your partner. This cost us a bit of time.
  36. 5.6? Sucks to jug. Belay the 2nd.
    {mb}Unless you want to play spin in space at the top of the route, when you could have just walked around the right side.

Walk off to raps is not far. ok maybe 2 hours. Though walking to tioga road would not be far either. Look for Cairns.

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