Tales of the Salathe
Other Climbing Stories

Misc. Stories


up Truly outstanding
solo Free Solo
biohaz2 It sucks(INMHO)
crosbone Scary!
no Tried and failed

Yosemite Valley

solo  Royal Arches(6)
solo  Snake Dike(6)
solo  After Six(6)
solo  Munginella(6)
solo  The Grack(6)thumb_up 
solo  Jam Crack p1(7)
Chouinard's Crack(7)
solo  Harry Daley(7)
solo  Anti-Ego Crack(7)
solo  Pot Belly(7)
Nutcracker(8)
Little John Right(8)
Little John Left(8)
thumb_up  Bishops Terrace(8)
thumb_up  Golden Needles(8)
Jam Crack p2(9)
La Cosita Right(9)
biohaz2  Jug Monkey(9)
biohaz2  Tree Route(Pulpit) (9)
Commitment(9)
North East Buttress of Higher Cathedral(9)
Reed's Direct(10a)
thumb_up  Sacherer Cracker(10a)
Son's of Yesterday(10a)
Enigma(10a)
thumb_up  Moby Dick Center(10a)
thumb_up  Desperate Starights(10a)
Crest Jewel(10a)
North Buttress of Middle Cathedral(10a)
thumb_up  Mid Term(10b)
Knob Job(10b)
crosbone  Direct North Buttress of Middle Catehdral(aka DNB)(10b)
thumb_up  Generator(10c)
East Buttress of Middle Cathedral(10c)
thumb_up  East Buttress of El Capitan(10c)
East Buttress of Lower Cathedral(10c)
Serenity Crack(10d)
thumb_up  The Tube(11a)
Bitch's Terror(11a)
Energizer(11b)
thumb_up  Lost Arrow Spire(A2)

Tuolumne Meadows

West Crack on Daff Dome
Crescent Arch on Daff Dome
Regular Route on Fairview Dome
crosbone  Hobbit Book on Marilumne Dome
Darth Vaders Revenge(10a)

Pinnacles, CA

solo  Swallow Crack(6)
solo  Rat Race(7)
solo  Thrill Hammer(8)
solo  Monolith Regular Route(8)
Ordeal(8)
biohaz2  Fly Bye(8)
Trauma(8)
solo  Wet Kiss(9)
Lava Falls(9)
Jorgies Crack(10a)
Stupendous Man(10a)
thumb_up  The Hatchet(10a)
biohaz2  Even Coyotes Like it Doggie Style (5.10a++)
biohaz2  The Pearl Sheath(10b)
Cantaloupe Death(10c)
thumb_up  No Holds barred(10c)
thumb_up  Mission Impossible(10c)
¡Cuidado!(10c)
SunWheel(11a)
Richnak's Revenge(11a)
Between A Rock & A Hard Place(11a)
thumb_up  Men At Work(11a/b)
The Verdict(11c not!)
thumb_up  Feed The Beast(11c)

Castle Rock, CA

Light in the Basement(11a)
Glob Of Shit(10c)
thumb_up  RectalPhobiac(11b)

Owens River Gorge

crosbone  Sendero Luminoso(10b)
The Aeretical(11a)

Colorado

solo  Flatirons 1-4(5.6) in a day
Ruper(5.8)
solo  Bastille Crack(5.8)
thumb_up 
Alice in Bucketland (8+) crosbone 
thumb_up  Green Spur(9)
Rosy crucifixtion(10a)
Super Spar(10c)
Grandmother's Challenge(10c)
Art's Spar (10c sandbag)
Petite Grepon (8)

Devil's Tower

solo  Durrance Route(5.6+)
New Wave(10a)
no  The Window(A4)

Big Walls

West Face Of Leaning Tower
Gold Wall
Flying Buttress Direct on Sentinel Rock
thumb_up  Salathe Wall on El Capitan
biohaz2  The Prow on Washington's Column
no  Zodiac on El Capitan(solo)
no  Space Shot in Zion
Zodiac on El Capitan
no  Southern Man on Washingon's Column
thumb_up Muir Wall on El Capitan
thumb_up  Mescalito on El Capitan (slides)
Direct Northwest Face of Halfdome
The Nose on El Capitan (Winter Ascent)

Phra-Nang Thailand

Take it easy(5)
Selee(6A)
Pahn Taalod(6A)
thumb_up  Stalagasurus(6A+)
SameBoy(6A+)
Valentine(6A+)
Massage Secrets(6A+)
Alone(6B+)
Muai Thai(6B+)
thumb_up  Humanality(6A, 6A+, 6B, 6B+)
thumb_up  Ao-Nang Tower(6B, 6B+, 6C)

Cabo San Lucas Mexico

thumb_up  Climb -n- Dive Pinnacle(10x)

Mt Arapiles, Australia

Eskimo Nell(120m 10)
solo  The Bard(120m 12)
Brolga(115m 16)
Watchtower Crack(100m 17)
thumb_up  Missing Link(30m 17)
Skink(100m 18)
Little Thor(12m 20)
Siva(18m 22-)
biohaz2  Checkmate(117m 17)
Second Coming(30m 22)

Joshua Tree

solo  Nurn's Romp(8)
Heart & Sole(10a)
Diamond Dogs(10a)
Exorcist(10a)
thumb_up  Grit Roof(10c)


Other Stories
Spindled & Mutilated 
I try to rope solo The Spindle in Meteora, Greece.
Winter Nose 
Against his better judgement, Jim and I do the nose in winter.
 Mescalito
Beta only, no story. slides.
 More Muir camera1
I pick up a stranger by the side of the road and try to climb The Muir Wall with him.
Confronting Zodiac camera1
I return to El Capitan with Paul to give Zodiac my best effort.
The Weekend 
Planned as a typical weekend in The Valley, but you know, stuff happens...
Benighted in the Cathedrals (Again)
Dennis Strom and I go up to do the Notorious DNB. I am Benighted in the Cathedrals for the third time in my short climbing career.
Fear & Loathing in Yosemite, Las Vegas, and Utah.
An awful lot of driving, very little climbing.
Snake Hike
I return to the rounded side of Half Dome, but this time without a rope.
Remedial big wall climbing.
Steve Wilcox and I climb the West Face of Leaning tower.


Tales of the Salathe

Stories about my attempts to get up the Salathe Wall on El Capitan...

If you look at the picture, the route starts on the buttress in the center, goes about 1/3 of the way up and then descends to the base of the heart. From there it follows the left edge of the heart up and then trending left turning roofs and finally surmounting the overhanging headwall. Thinking of doing the route? Want some Beta?

A photo tour of the Salathe Wall camera1
A collection of photos from all my attempts, including links into the stories.
The Bottom Half of the Salathe Wall camera1
Dennis Strom and I give it my first try. Dennis is an excellent climber and an El Cap veteran. Should be a cruise, right???
Even less of the Salathe Wall
Steve Wilcox and I give it a go. Steve hasn't been climbing much, so its a bit of a long shot, but if you want something bad enough...
A Sport Climbers Nightmare camera1
Partner desperation sets in and I give it a try with some random woman who picked me up at the climbing gym.
El Cap Happens camera1
Michael Brodesky and I try it. Believe it or not, we actually make it to the top!


Misc.
 What Happened to Evan?
I go to Mexico to windsurf and end up breaking my ankle in a 35 foot fall.
 The Blankest moment of my life
An essay I wrote on waking up in a hospital with no memory.
 Summer of Sloth
How I kept myself busy after quitting my day job.
 What I did on my summer vacation (in December)
Christmas '98 trip to Australia


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